Hand Saws
You will need a tenon saw and a portable workbench. If you don't have a workbench, hand sawing will be easier with a bench hook.
- Clamp the wood to the workbench or hold it on the bench hook, with the lower block pressed against the edge of your work surface.
- Any saw cut removes a strip of wood equal to the width of the blade's teeth, so saw on the waste side of the line you have marked. Position the blade of your tenon saw on the waste side of the line, using the thumb of your other hand as a guide, and start the cut with a few light backward strokes (towards you).
- Once the cut is started, make forward strokes (away from you) with the blade at an angle of about 45° to the wood surface. As the cut deepens, gradually bring the saw to the horizontal and continue cutting. Complete the cut by letting the saw teeth just cut into the bench hook. This stops the underside of the workpiece from splintering. If you are using a workbench, carry on sawing at 45° and support the off-cut with your free hand as you complete the cut.
Power Sawing
You will need a power jigsaw, a guide batten or fence, and a workbench with a clamp.
- Jigsaw blades cut on the upstroke and can easily splinter veneered or plastic-coated boards, so if using these mark cutting lines on the underside of the board and cut it face down.
- Clamp the workpiece to your workbench so the saw can't wrench it from your grip. Rest the front end of the saw soleplate on the edge of the wood or board, with the blade to the waste side of the line, and switch the saw on.
- Move the saw forward until the blade starts to cut. Then push the saw steadily forward with the soleplate flat on the wood, following the cutting line all the way across. Support the off-cut with your free hand as you complete the cut.
